Vang Vieng

It would be fair to say that our relationship with Vang Vieng verges on a love/hate affair. We rode out on the VIP bus from Vientiane in the morning up mild grade mountains (note: VIP only implies the name of the bus company and is not any indicator of the comfort you would expect from a company baring the name). We befriended a couple of German kids looking to get their party on but unfortunately they had to contend with the doped up chicks hogging the seats in the back of the bus. They must have had their "happy" shakes early because they weren't moving an inch. With enough shoving they did manage to utter incoherent phrases in no relation to the present moment. Good for them, at least their stomachs didn't shift back and forth from the hairpin curves. Of the towns we visited in Laos, Vang Vieng was by far the most scenic and picturesque. Aside from the views there are caves, Wats (ancient Buddhist temples), tubing, biking, kayaking, rock climbing, basically an outdoor person's wet dream. We loved it, so what's to hate? Hippies. Spring Breakers. Junkies. People who go to Laos to get drunk and watch Friends and Family Guy on big screen TVs. I know, I'm being judgmental. Next to an Indian Restaurant we had dinner at was the "happy" pizza and shake place that will spike your food with marijuana, mushrooms, or opium and it was packed with zoned out kids. The best was while we were tubing down the Nam Song there were three hippies totally doped up, one thought he was the Bionic Man trying to run through the water while his two female friends were fixated at gazing into the sky with drool coming out of their mouths. The sad part was that we didn't get any pictures of this because water plus camera equals no bueno...so some of those Kodak moments will forever be lost.

One of the many scenic spots we passed along the way.

I could live here.

The view from our guest house (Villa Aekham) situated along the Nam Song. Accommodations were plentiful and ranged from a few bucks to around twenty if you desired A/C. We're old and we have jobs so $18 wasn't going to break the bank.

We thought spending the day exploring caves and tubing was in order so we stopped by the tour operator up the street from our place and made it happen. We stated out at 8:30 am and drove 13 km north to a village of the Elephant Cave. The next couple of shots are from the village near our drop off point. One of the pluses of the tour was walking alongside the river and through numerous farms and villages, it was too bad that it was hot, biking would have been a better option to explore the area.

Village leading to Elephant Cave.

A future meal in the making.

Do you see the elephant? If you do you'll understand the origin of the name.

The Buddha footprint.

There were three caves in the area known as the Tham Song Triangle that we had the opportunity to visit. From Tham Song (Elephant cave) we walked about 15 minutes to Tham Loup (the above image), although we only spent 45 minutes in it, our guide said that it went 3 km into the limestone mountain, the short distance we walked was enough for us. He told us about an American who died because the battery to his headlamp went out. Note to self, bring spare battery and a buddy.

It looks like the head from the Martians from the Movie Mars Attacks.

Our guide told us that the caves in the area were a safe haven during the war and that the villagers hiding out kept a record on the wall.

Tham Nam (river cave) was the highlight of the trio. You get yourself a tractor inner tube, a bulky battery operated headlamp and squeeze through the narrow crevice and pull yourself along the rope and float in darkness until you get bored. It was totally bitchin.

After the cave tubing experience we walked for about 45 minutes on a dirt path through farms and villages until we arrived back at the Nam Song. We were given inner tubes and sent on our way down the river. Within the first five minutes we came to MTV spring break central, also known as the water park. Both sides of the river were filled with bars throwing out lines to tubers hoping to pull in Beerlao customers. Kids were also diving from rocks and swinging on trees with music blaring in the background. We did see our German bus companion making out with his new hook-up in the river. I give him a shout out.

A farm along the way to Nam Song.

Typical vehicle.

Enough was enough, tubing might be great and all, but after two hours of moving at a snail's pace and you see the halfway point sign you sort of give up unless you're the Bionic Hippy with the drooling posse. This was the end of the line for us. the river was low since it was dry season and a rock massage on your behind isn't all that fun. After throwing in the towel we watched naked Lao boys jump from the bridge into the Nam Song.

Like all the other places in Laos (except the Mexican joint in Vientiane) the food was tasty and the people were friendly. Also worth noting was the Phoudindaeng Organic Farm which promotes community programs to help schools. There was a great cartoon poster of DOs and DONTs while in Laos posted which encouraged respect for the culture meaning no making out in public and a reminder to take off your shoes when visiting temples. Again the camera was MIA.

Vientiane Laos

You can blame me; I was the one with the bright idea to take the night sleeper train up to Laos. I should have known something was up when our driver in Bangkok started to laugh when we told him our plans. He is from border town of Nong Khai, just on the edge of Friendship Bridge that crosses over into Laos. His advice was to take the air-conditioned bus. But we wanted the experience of a train so when Barbara, Ana, and I walked into the station to purchase our tickets all was set to go for the A/C sleeper car until I was informed that all the remaining beds were upper bunk and the ticket agent told me I was "too big for high bed" so we opted to the less expensive non A/C car to accommodate yours truly. The train departed at 8 pm sharp and was packed. Us night owls were eventually chased to the food/beverage car for a nightcap of warmly toasted cashews laced with onions and hot chili peppers and Thai beer. Still unable to go to sleep, I sat in my bed and wrote in my journal until we hit another station. I motioned a vendor from my window to bring me a bottle of beer and sure enough he did and he even ran after the train to hand me my change; what service!

Beverages on the train.

We arrived at the Nong Khai station by 10 am hardly rested and bug bitten. We had to catch a tuk-tuk to Friendship Bridge border crossing. This sign was the outgoing message from Thailand. We took a bus over the Mekong River into Laos to get our visas (about 45 minutes) then off to our hotel in Vientiane 20 km north. We were a little anxious to get into the 100-degree heat and explore the communist country. Mexican for lunch sounded like a good idea in theory but sadly the burritos were a culinary letdown. The Lao dinner later that evening was much better. For being a capital, Vientiane is a sleepy town moving at a gentle pace. We found it to be peaceful and laidback, the calm was welcoming.

Door at Wat Chan near our hotel.

The wires are definitely not buried in Vientiane.

Presidential Palace at dusk.

Yes, you do have to be a true man to drink one of Laos finest offerings. Sadly to say that I passed this one up. The Riverside Market where this photo was taken had some of the better prices in town for all your needs including maps to all the major cities in Laos. I would recommend picking up the ever so detailed Hobo Map for all your Laos traveling needs. You can visit them at www.hobomaps.com

If you consume too much True Manhood and Beerlao and you drive a motorbike this is a glimpse of your future.

25 km south of Vientiane lies the 8th wonder of the world, Buddha Park aka Xieng Khuan situated on the Mekong. There are over 200 statues (though not all Buddha) many seem to reference Hinduism merged with Buddhism (at least that is what I remember from hanging out with the Hare Krishnas back in the day). Represented are: gods, demons, humans, and animals. The park is the work of brainchild/visionary Luang Pu in 1958, all the detailed and oversized sculptures are made of cement with the intentions to look older than they appear. To a degree, the insparition/madness reminds me of Howard Finsters Paradise Garden in Summerville Georgia...though not as feverishly constructed. The giant pumpkin sculpture Ana is at the base of is a three level structure representing hell, earth, and heaven. We were tempted to enter and climb our way up to heaven but the fear of a potential cobra or spider encounter in hell prevailed.

One of the many sculptures.

A favorite.

The 40 meter reclining Buddha observes the madness.

I'm sure there's a story somewhere.

What can you say.

Pha That Luang, according to Lonely Planet it is the most significant Laos monument representing Lao sovereignty and the Buddhist religion constructed in the 16th century. It was damaged during invasions and restored in 1900.

Sayset-thathirath statue

Inside the gates of Pha That Luang

A sculpture inside Pha That Luang

Didn't get the name but it was on the same compound of Pha That Luang

Again, I was camera happy and didn't get any info but was blown away by the number of paintings inside the Wat/temple.

A monk after prayer.

Patu Xay outside Patuxay park.

That Dam situated in the downtown area. Word was that it was once covered in gold and the Siamese (people not the cats) swiped it. Another myth has it that it was a seven head dragon that came to life to protect the locals during the Siamese-Lao war during the 1800's

A view from our hotel of communist dollars (KIP) hard at work along the Mekong.

Other places worth a visit would be the Talat Sao Morning Market next to the Talat Sao mall and be sure to visit the Ethnic Crafts Market across the street. The bus station is also in the vicinity and handy for catching a ride to all the sights worth seeing. The National Museum was a little dated and could use a fresh coat of paint. There was quite a bit of information form a Lao perspective on the French Indochina war dating from 1946-1954 leading to the United States involvent in South East Asia often referring to the U.S. as "American Imperialists." Somehow the Hmong (Lao mountain people) were convientely left out of the equation. Something else worth mentioning are the ladies of the evening who gather around the restaurants on Setthathirath Road, they tend to approach you by saying "where you go?" Our visit to Vientiane was short, I would advise 3 days to get a better fill.

A week in Bangkok

Our school was generous enough to send Ana and I to the NESA (Near East South Asia) Spring Educators Conference in Bangkok for professional development. It would be our first time in the heart of Asia. The week spent in Bangkok proved to be not enough time as we only scratched the surface of what the city had to offer. We made the best effort of the seven days. To say it was a radical departure from Alexandria would be an understatement as the culture, food, and activities were a far cary from our life in Egypt. It made us realize the type of excitement and energy we had been longing for. Not to dismiss that there isn't a buzz in Egypt-just different. The culture shock for one of our teacher in particular who had never been outside of the middle east, Bangkok was downright disturbing. Below is a sample of images of places we explored. Enjoy.   

We opted to stay in the frantic area of China Town and not at the upscale conference hotel hoping to get a real taste of the city. There were night and morning markets and thanks to jet lag I walked around 5 am and the streets were already bustling with shoppers buying plastic junk in bulk for their shops and export, along with produce and freshly slaughtered animals. Most of the stalls close in the evening and give way to makeshift crowded low-cost food vendors that line the busy streets, sidewalks, and alleys. Add the weekend night sellers hocking their personal goods to round out the equation.         

Our second morning was spent at the Damnoen Saduka floating market in Ratchaburi about 2 hours west of the city. The canal was constructed by King Rama IV back in the mid-1800's and is approx. 30 km in length. The experience was lively, colorful and a popular destination for tourists. Vendors sell food, produce, spices, goods, and souvenirs on boats and along the banks. Our skipper channeled us up the canal to get the full experience. The central area, the so-called downtown area is one big clusterf**k of boats dueling to get through the narrow pathway. The act of politeness and patients were exhibited by all.         

Much of the food offered by the vendors was a mystery to us foreigners, only those brave enough indulged, especially those on their second can of beer by 10 am. 

One of the less congested areas. 

A Buddhist temple along the canal. 

A cemetery alongside the temple.

A salt field outside on the outskirts of the floating market.

Salt field worker making the magic happen. 

Patpong neighborhood in Bangkok-known for the night market, restaurants, bars, and sex shows. We were often approached with a menu of what kind of girl we wanted-yes even with Ana and Barbara in tow-maybe they thought we were kinky. You can get your knock off Polo shirts, DVDs, and soccer jerseys. It looked like Bangkok 101 for westerners fresh off the plane.  

Another kind of Thai chili. Where do the non-lovers go?

yum-yums for your tum-tum. 

City view from conference hotel.

Along the Chao Phraya River. 

Beer selection at the local supermarket.

Luncheon meats selection at the local supermarket.

I bet you don't find this selection of Pringles at your neighborhood Kroger, Vons, Safeway, Albertsons, Winn Dixie, King Soopers, Piggly Wiggly...  

Teachers waiting for the skytrain.

The Red Shirts. I learned through a friend in Laos that there are two main political factions in Thailand-the Red Shirts and the Yellow Shirts. If you have been following the news, we were almost caught in the middle of it all. The Red Shirts called the anti-government faction made up mainly of farmers and laborers have caused a disruption in Thailand's tourism industry. The day we departed the Government issued a state of emergency as protesters stormed government buildings and camped out at tourist spots (mainly shopping malls). There is fear that the protest might escalate into violence. Upon departing, the airport was lined with armed military troops and checkpoints. We'll be keeping a tab on the situation.  

A vendor at the infamous weekend market. We had been to the Medinas in Morocco, The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, The Khan in Cairo and that training didn't prepare us for the shopping experience we would have at the weekend market. Our favorite part of the market were the boutique clothing vendors who constructed some unusual and interesting wears. I would like to note that the boy above is wearing a shirt by the English skinhead band Last Resort...how is that for an example of globalism. 

Another shot the Chao Phraya River from our friends hotel room.

A scene from a cultural event at the NESA gala. Not only were we provided with killer lunch buffet daily, but also a gala filled with culture and an after party disco. Frank our principal said the dancing was worth sticking around for and the dance deprived middle east teachers let it all out (note-in several countries like Kuwait and Saudi Arabia doing the "locomotion"  or any other form of dancing will get you escorted out of the kingdom faster than you can say "bacon"). The older teachers outlasted the younger ones, that was for sure.     

No underground wires here.

Outside Bangkok's Art and Culture Centre.

Ana getting the 411.