Gent re-visited

Visiting with our friends Harry and Goedroen in Gent, Belgium is starting to become an annual ritual. We took a three hour intercity train from Amsterdam and took note of the flat landscape in Holland. If the stars align next summer then we're on for a bike tour of the Flanders region. Just in case you need a soundtrack suggestion for a Gent bound train, try the most recent Three Mile Pilot album The Inevitable Past is the Future Forgotten.    

Harry and Goedroen live in a lovely flat in Kouter Square with the million dollar view of De Viaamse Opera house and the Sunday morning flower market. 

Towards the center of town. 

We met Eddy last year when we stopped by his bar and I was wearing a Void shirt (early 80's Washington DC hardcore band-the group's logo is right side up and upside down cross). We had both an interesting and profound conversation about the meaning behind the logo. It was nice when he asked about the shirt.  

Els aka 100% got wind that we were coming for a visit and prepared another out of this world meal for the occasion.  The title 100% comes from her approach to food, she earned the nickname for how she uses natural ingredients mainly from her garden. She has opened our eyes to a whole new world of gastronomy. 

Els is not only an expert in the kitchen, she also makes rugs and furniture. But that's not all, in her spare time she owns and operates Champagne and Cava bar on the edge of the city's center. No slowing down Els! 

Dinner's salad-straight from the garden into the tummy. 

Harry contemplating if he should join the dinner guests in the hot tub. 

The bunny's head. We may have eaten the rabbit (maybe from the garden as well), but one of their friends took delight in pulling the tongue from the mouth and eating it. 

Even the ice cream and mint leaves were 100%!

Last year we posted several pictures of the Medieval Gent. This time I will attempt to mix it up. I remember living in a gated community in Atlanta with strict housing codes to prevent people from doing this to their homes. There is a lot to be said for uniformity and those who wish to challenge one's aesthetics. 

Back in San Diego I'd take a daily stroll around the South Park neighborhood often passing a house doubling as a shrine. The porch and lawn were packed with knick-kacks and lawn ornaments. For some of the neighbors this might fall under the definition of an eyesore, for others it is how one resident wishes to express herself. One weekend morning I recalled a hand written sign posted outside the house desperately begging for the return of the ceramic turtles. A few days later another sign appeared with a tirade condemning the person(s) who lifted the four-legged creature. This is the price of non-conformity. Here in open view, two pocket sized dog sculptures. One could easily walk off with the pieces or simply arrange them to sniff each others behinds as dogs are prone to do.        

You can't stop a man who's in love with a monster bunny.

Not going far today.

Have extra space beneath the step to your front door? Try a plastic toy mushroom and animal diorama. 

The Gent library has free internet and cool posters and...

...a map to public toilets. 

Art along the canal. 

Contour drawing 101.

You know you want to live in Gent!

How could you not love these buildings?

Your new home. 

Best bakery in Gent. 

Any beer sporting a witch is drinkable in my book. We had a nice lunch at a quiche shop near Haus Aljin (The House of Alijn)-The museum of things that (n)ever pass. We bought the exhibition catalog to the show Tomorrow we're expecting the school photographer; the exhibit celebrates the long tradition of picture day and its' rapidly fading future. There is an argument that as ordinary as school pictures are they serve to chronologically capture one's natural development, celebrate moments, and are "tangible memories of school." This show was a nice follow-up to the exhibit Notities bij het kijken we saw last year; a series of home films spliced together celebrating infancy to old age done in the vein to the ending of Giuseppe Tornatore's Cinema Paradiso or Tarsem Singh's The Fall, both are truly touching and sentimental. Ana and I have visited museums and galleries from around the planet, and Haus Aljin ranks up there with the best of them. A must see when in Gent. Below Images from the exhibit. 

       

The quiche.

What better way to attract patrons to your eatery.

We skipped the Middle Age Gravensteen Castle this round, but always worth mentioning. 

More art along the canal. 

Stencil near the shopping district. 

Minutes before a downpour. 

Who knows Belgium Dutch? Translation please.

Detail.

Understanding Left and Right.

Mural outside a cafe.

More of the same. When all was said and done on our way back to the Gent-Sint-Pieters rail station we reflected what a special place Gent is and appreciate the time Harry, Goedroen, and Els have spent with us during the past couple of years opening our eyes up to new experiences and introducing us to their fine friends. We look forward to our evolving friendship.    

We (heart) Gent Belgium part 1

FYI-if you know us or if we ever have the pleasure to meet you...be warned if you consider extending an invitation to your home or country-we will most likely take you up on the offer. Take Goedroen and Harry for example. This is how it all went down. 

When: New Year's Eve night 

Where: Marrakech, Morocco 

Who: Goedroen, Harry, and their two children

The Situation: In walks a family and they are seated next to us. I observe them for a short bit and it looks like they are having the time of their lives. I was in a friendly mood so I stood up and walked over to their table and we started chatting about our respective trips. Goedroen tells me that they were from the greatest city in the world and pulled out a picture of snow covered medieval buildings alongside a canal. I was interested and maybe it was the wine but she casually mentioned that we should come and visit and wrote down her name on a torn scrap of a riad flier and told me to Facebook her. After a little research of her city of Gent, Belgium we were sold. On the way back to the states Ana and I agreed to take a side trip to visit them and what a trip it was...          

Mexico has Tecate and Belgium has Jupiler, an everyday favorite agmongst the locals. Harry, Goedroen, and Ana taking in the evening.  

The first night was cold and the sun was hiding behind low laying clouds. The shops had closed between five and six and life on the streets was sparse. It was decided that we would catch the South Africa vs Uruguay match in the square between Saint Bavo's Cathedral and Belfort/Belfry of Gent before hitting a handful of establishments, which meant a crash course on Belgium's finest offerings. One of the goals was to try the six Belgium Trappist beers that are brewed by Trappist monks. The breweries include: Achel, Chimay, Orval, Rochefort, Westmalle, and Westvleteren. Unlike in the states, it would be considered uncivilized to consume the brew straight from the bottle and thus each brand is accompanied by its' own goblet. For a more comprehensive listing and tasting notes on the Trappist beers please click here   

Orval on tap was next on the list while Goedroen enjoyed her bottle of Export.

 

Goedroen and Harry introduced us to their friends and local haunts-Bal Infernal, there was a live acoustic band finishing their set as we walked in. The setting was low key and friendly. Their stain glass window says it all. After a couple of beers we were off to the third and final stop-Charlatan which by the way have amazing and unorthodox graphics for their weekly events fliers. We took a photo of one and decided that it might not be suited for Camels and Tacos but if you really want to see it you can always e-mail me.  

Enjoying a bottle of Affigem at the Charlatan. It was a quite evening but we heard that is generally packed and a favorite in Gent. 

Goedroen and Harry's flat is located on the edge of Kouter Square and the literature states that it was a site of military parades and jousting during the middle ages. We missed the Sunday weekly flower market and the live music. Also located in the square behind the gazebo is Handelsbeurs concert hall (built in the 18th century). FYI this photo was taken around 10pm after a meal of Frieten (Belgium fries).   

The sun refused to cooperate the following day as well, but we made the best of it by hitting the streets. The above area is Gent's city center; the water of the Leie is lined on both sides with buildings from the Middle Ages. On sunny afternoons the banks are lined with groups of students and adults enjoying conversation and libations accompanied by light snacks. 

Houses.

A window from the Carmelite Monastery

Gravensteen (Castle of the Counts). The original structure was made of wood during the 9th Century. The current stone structure was constructed during the 12th Century by Philip of Alsace. During our tour it was said that Gent begun renovation in the late 19th century and we don't know when it was completed or if it was, but there is evidence that crews are still working on the castle. It seems to be partially surrounded by a moat.

Views from the top.

Ana checking for flying saucers.

Another view from the top.

We checked in our IDs for a handheld video guided tour, which amounted to a 45-minute Middle Ages period sitcom of scandalous and cheeky commentary of the different rooms in the castle. Aside from the rooms that displayed the weaponry and body armor, there were execution and torture rooms.    

Waterboarding v 1.0

This is my ideal of a serial killer mask..."come here precious..."

All those executions and tortures can work up a mean thrust. 250 brands of beer conveniently located across the castle. 

Yours truly.

We love the buildings.

The real deal-a Belgium Waffle.

Yes-Gent is amazing

Stay tuned for Part 2