Goodbye Addis and ICS

Two years and out. Admin. co-workers, friends asked why we left Ethiopia after two years to return back to Alexandria, Egypt. We've had some time to reflect on this question. The most fitting response we could muster was, "Ethiopia wasn't a fit." It wasn't any single event, it was a collection of little things that added up.

For us, Egypt was full of life, movement, and distractions while Ethiopia was like being confined to a monastery. Everything we've said about the people, food, and landscape while living there is true, it was mostly positive. Our students were great, we liked our bosses and co-workers were fun to be around...in the end we were glad the school didn't make much of an effort to retain us. Had our school thrown a carrot our direction it would have been harder to leave. (We requested to move closer to school so Ana could nurse-per school policy no special provisions are made to teachers and to the school's credit they stuck to their word.)

When Ana left to give birth back in the States, the void was exaggerated in an already lonely landscape. If it wasn't for the task of writing a book, I probably would have knocked on my neighbors doors often and medicated myself more than I already did. In short, isolation isn't conducive to a happy life.

Reflecting back on some of the last photos I took below reminds me how compelling the last couple months of isolation can eclipse an overall experience.

My favorite signs in Addis. I think the animal might be a cat or a mutation of one.  The animal has the option of using a paint brush on his right, but decided dumping a bucket of paint would better suit the task. Vandal-like tendencies. 

Kristin, the neighbor upstairs. She was devoted to Cheetos and eating on the floor. No exaggeration.  

More paint store art. Three colors in one can an Ethiopian exclusive.

Nathan was my brewing buddy.  

I made a series of phony "lost" animal flyers. My favorite one was of the lost hyena-a family pet. I taped a couple around town. I also posted one of a lost snake in our building's elevator that caused the building's management to create their own stating not to post posters.  

One of my co-workers thought it would be fun make a response. He made my day. 

Rob had scotch tastings on Wednesday nights. He also provoked people at parties with politics. I'm  sure people thought he was rude, but that's why I liked him. 

Tash spoke whatever they do in New Zealand and made everything sound dirty. I had her name in my phone as "Crotch Rash"  

Two fisted Nik let me beat him at chess. 

Erik, also had a way to weed people out. He could be very off-putting to other adults. I also liked him a lot. 

If you're single (or married) be ready to mingle when Ryan is around. Kudos to Ry for marrying a local (Habesha-not pictured) in record time. Who is pictured next to Ryan is the fabulous Downtown Jackie Brown who will whip you silly with her tongue. Stay out of her way and she won't bite.   

Mooch Goat. Don't leave your food unattended. 

Solomon was my local buddy from the commissary who told me wild Ethiopian stories.  

I had a vision of putting drawings all over the house. Then I thought i should be more responsible than that. This one has several quotes from the movie Apocalypse Now. 

After packing out. Screams Soviet era Eastern Bloc minimalism. 

Fuck yeah, we were.

Lake Langano Ethiopia

K8+8 thought our school year should end with one last big adventure. She picked a weekend at Lake Langano with Downtown Jackie Brown, Team Sara/Esme, Mooch Goat (bailed last minute due to illness), and I as the appropriate trip. 

We booked out of our classrooms within minutes of the dismissal bell. The next 3.5 hours were spent dodging live stock, humans, Sino Trucks-What some Ethiopian's call Al Queda, buses, potholes, and donkey carts. We arrived just in time to see stars, listen to the lake slap the shore, and hear wild dogs off in the distance. 

Ethiopia is a birdwatcher's paradise. Well, I didn't intend to look for birds, I walked around with a point-and-shoot camera and snapped what I saw.

Blood oranges? 

Cactus were flowering. 

Livestock outside out campground. 

It is common to see goats climb trees for food...or much on cactus. 

Random grave site.

The shore.

Everyone likes a eagle.

The blooming cacti were abundant. 

Nature's version of swimming pool noodles 

It is the begging of the rainy season and some trees are in bloom. 

Bird nests.

Crazy looking duck.

K8+8 likes to row in the water so we went on a little adventure checking out other villages and camp sites along the lake.

It appears most birds like the orange tree. 

We didn't quite rough it, there was a fully functional kitchen. Most of the people that use the facility are related to the Embassy and I can't see many of them roughing it.  

Downtown Jackie Brown looking for animals.

The images below are from a previous Langano visit.

Traveling around Ethiopia with Sonny: Bahir Dar, Gondar, Aksum, and Lalibela

Our friend Sonny came to visit us for about 12 days back in the beginning of January. We hung out in Addis for a couple of days then booked a non-stop tour up north to have our minds blown by some of Ethiopia's best sights. When all was said and done, we were like, WTF just happened. We saw so many places it seemed like we were out much longer than we were. No regrets, pure fun and craziness.  

Ana getting checked for Ebola. Kudos to Ethiopia for being proactive on countering the outbreak. Of course I'm closer to a confirmed case here in San Diego than when I was in Ethiopia. Just a reality check for the haters out there.  

Hand written airline tickets are all the rage in Ethiopia. You saw it here first on Camels and Tacos.

Another Camels and Tacos exclusive, Self-service Immigration Counter in Bahir Dar. 

Waiting for luggage. 

Market day in Bahir Dar.  

There isn't much water in January at the Blue Niles Falls. 

When Ana and I saw this in the fall it was intense. Not much going on during the dry season. You can check out our other post to compare by clicking HERE. 

Our taxi that took us across the Blue Nile River.

Boat full of school children. I was once bused to school. 

Kill A Pest brightens up any room. 

A future hotel in Bahir Dar, taking reservations now. 

Gondar has the Dashen Beer Garden. Skip the bottle and get the fresh unfiltered stuff from the tap. Delicious.

A Dashen Beer Garden customer. More evidence that thrift store clothing fashion is all the rage in Gondar. 

I don't always stay in Debarke, but when I do it is at the Semen park hotel. 

Simien Mountain National Park natives. 

A Gelada male.

The Gelada monkeys were moving to another spot when we arrived. 

We opted for a 3-4 hour hike to check out the majestic Simien Mountains.

Zonies be jealous. 

We had to hire a guide and security in Debark before driving into the mountains. 

To get to this point to see this waterfall was tempting fate. One had to climb on some rocks to pass over to see this view. It is a long drop. I didn't quite get to enjoy it as I was still shaking a little. 

Somehow I made the mistake and booked 2 nights in Gondar. I'm not a fan of discrimination and places like Ethiopia and Egypt have widely different prices for locals and tourists. I don't mind paying a little extra, but 20 times as much is a bit extreme. After hemming and hawing we finally went into Fasil Ghebbi where Ethiopian emperors once lived. 

The structures were amazing to explore.

On the other side of town was  Fasilides' Bath. They were getting ready for the Timket holiday, a time when people flock to the bath.  

Ana and Sonny taking advantage of the roots. 

Another view of  Fasilides' Bath

Next up was Askum. We were on a late flight and missed getting into Aksum Stelae Park, sort of. We arrive a few minutes before it closed, but we figured out a way to make it happen.

Obelisk of Axum. 

Church of St. Mary of Zion. Just over the wall and a couple of buildings in, lies the Ark of Covenant. Sonny had read that the ark was recently stolen. The story is a couple of  helicopters landed and knocked out the guards and flew off with the ark. So we asked around and the story seemed to be made-up unless there is a town gag-order.

The church in the midst of Aksum Stelae Park. 

Our friends hanging out at Queen of Sheeba's Bath. Photo by Sonny. 

Aksum is known for a white type of flowery honey. I bought a kilo. Photo by Sonny.  

Our final stop was Lalibela. A van picked us up from the airport and Sonny made friendly with the two young ladies sitting next to him. One of the guys in the back busted out some tella and passed it around. That my folks, is how you get the party bus going. People visit Lalibela for the churches. Our guide was amazing, his grandfather was a priest at one of the churches so he told us a lot of insider information.  

Reading and praying.

Traveling through tunnels from one church to the next. 

The space in the churches are dense. We only saw 6 churches out of 10 that afternoon. 

On the way to the Church of St. George

The Church of St. George is the most famous of the bunch.

Obligatory group shot with the church. 

Another view.

The sun was setting. 

Final view. 

For a nice meal with a view in what seems like a spaceship, Ben Abeba is a must in Lailbela. Go at sunset, you won't regret it.